Build a Dinghy: Part 26

Fixed the bike, picked-up the kids and it rained...so I got out of yardwork. Hence, I rushed to my bench, to start building the oarlock pads for my Summerbreeze Skiff. First, I cut some leftover chine stock into 10-inch long pieces and dry fit them together. Next, I coated the faying surfaces with straight epoxy; then buttered them with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. I used wire ties to clamp the bundles together and a spring clamp to induce a little extra squeeze-out. Longitudinal alignment was achieved by eye, basically, as these 10-inch long blocks form rough stock for oarlock pads that will be 8-inches finished length. Hitting the road, so wont be back to this til next weekend, when, hopefully, I'll shape and install the pads and locks. Then all I need do is flip the boat and give the topsides two more coats of Kirby's. At that point it will be a completed rowboat. Of course, I'm building the sailing version.....but it will be nice to splash the boat while I work on the spars, rudder, tiller, and board.

Build a Dinghy: Part 25

My breasthook is laminated from two 3/4" pieces of teak --cutoffs I had laying around. The glue-up was fine, but I didn't want the end grain exposed on the aft edge. So I fitted this "fashion piece" out of douglas fir to cap the end grain. It matches the inwales.

Build a Dinghy: Part 24

Inwale Glue-Up I prepped by masking the boat, as I've learned that blobs of cured epoxy take more time to clean than to prevent. In this shot you can see the blocks, quarterknees, breasthook are ready to accept the rails. I dry fit them to be sure. During the dry-fit, I marked the rails so I would know where to apply a glue. I then slathered on thinned epoxy, to both the boat, and the rails, then buttered each with epoxy mixed with cabosil (colloidal silica), and snapped the rails in place. They stayed more or less put without any clamps, but I applied light clamping pressure to ensure good "squeeze-out." I let them cure for two days, then used block plane to tune everything together. Note that per the teachings of Greg Rossel, my rails display "virtual camber." That is, they are sloped outboard, giving a jaunty look. Much saltier than had I installed them horizontally. In this last shot, we see that I have planed the portside rail, but have not yet "tuned-up" the starboard rail, bringing the inwale, outwale, and spacer blocks into the same plane. Click the pic for a larger view.

Falvey’s Long Island Fishing Book Sighting | www.boats.com

Falvey’s Long Island Fishing Book Sighting | www.boats.com

Build a Dinghy:Part 23

Well, I started on my mast blank. I really need to sand the interior and get another coat of paint on so I can install the inwales, but I need this 10-foot long chuck of wood out of my way. So, I ripped a 2 x 6 out of the 2 x 12 of doug fir I had and then ripped that into a pair of 2 x3's. I pre-coated them with straight epoxy, then a mix with colloidal silica and slapped them together. Clamping pressure is light, using the solvent cans, and I achieved good squeezout. Once I clean up the squeeze a little, I'll clamp this lamination between two boardson which I stapled plastic sheeting so they wont stick. That should cure the slight misalignment seen in the pic. Getting there.

Build a Dinghy: Part 22

OK, now that I've got two coats of paint on the interior, I dry-fit my inwales. I clamped them along the spacer blocks and then used my shop-made bevel gauge, a'la Greg Rossel to take and mark the angles on the inwale stock. (Store-bought bevel gauges are too big for the tight confines of smal boats. This one, made from an old hacksaw blade and a rivet is "just right.")I'm happy with how these cuts came out and will now remove the inwales, soak them and clamp them in place. When they dry they will be pre-bent and ready for glue and fasteners.

Build a Dinghy: Part 21

My inwale spacer block and quarter knee installation came out fine. Prior to installing the inwales and mast partner, I painted the interior with a coat of Kirby's 'Red Tint." The paint was boxed by pouring back and forth into larger containers. Brushes are a Purdy sash style for cutting around the blocks and frame etc and a 3" Wooster brand recommended by Kirby. As you can see I had a helper: its her boat and she picked the color. Two more coats and then I'll install the inwales and partner. Sharp-eyed among you might notice that I forgot to mask off where the mast step goes. It gets epoxied in place, so I guess I'll have to "wood" that spot for good adhesion, yes? Exterior is white, the rails, stem, knees, teak plywood transom will be oil finished. I am debating what exact finish to use and so a question: Can I paint over Le Tonk, shop-mixed boat soup or tung oil?