Build a Dinghy: Part 19

After installing the rails and breasthook, I flipped the boat over and glassed the chines. I used 6-inch wide biaxial tape, which is lower profile than woven cloth.( Its knitted, so doesnt have the ins and outs of a weave). It also doesnt have a hard selvage edge to have to sand and fair in smoothly. Its also stronger.

First I dry fit a cut piece of biax. Then I applied epoxy resin to the chines. Then I smoothed the fabric in with a plastic spreader. then I used a spreader and brush to apply more resin atop the fabric, wetting it out.

After that cured for 24 hours, I applied another coat of resin to fill the weave, "painting" it wide of the fabric edge to help fair it in. After that cured, I mixed Microlight fairing filler with resin and "bogged" the chines, making a real smooth transistion from glass to wood, as you can see.

I then coated the entire hull in epoxy. I wasnt planning in this--its optional really, adding weight and expense--but I had som many drips that I brushed out from apllying the 'glass to the chines, that the boat was half-coated already. So I just rolled on another coat,tipping-off with a foam brush to remove the stipple.

Finally, you see the glass-like surface and the new "owner" in the shop for a progress check (my daughter Keira)

Build a Dinghy: Part 18

To put the guardrails--rubrails, guards, pick your term--I had to soak them in water for a few days. I used a piece of gutter to do this, blocking the ends and filling with water. Then I weighted the wood to keep it submerged.

When I tried dry fitting them, they crackled alot at the transom, where in addition to a good bend, the rails also have to twist to follow the sheerline. Soaking them made them pliable. I then clamped them in place, then let them dry for three days, removed them, applied glue and put them back. This is every boat builders favorite shot: every clamp in the house (almost--49 clamps; I own 58!).

Youc can see in the top pic how the rails over hang the transom. After teh glue dried, I cut them flush using my Japanese flush cut saw. Using the boat to make cuts that way ensures a perfect fit every time.

Build a Dinghy: part 17

Here is my skeg, cut from 5/8" teak plywood. I shaped it and cut it flush with the transom after it was glued and screwed. The first step is shown here, where a pencil sliding on a wood scrap is used to scribe the shape of the bottom rocker onto the skeg.It fit PURR-fectly!

Build a Dinghy: Part 16

I cut and shaped the skeg out of 7/8" teak ply--marine grade. Glued it in and it looks sweet. I have the rails--the gunwales or guards if you prefer, soaking to make them easier to bend. Pics soon--promise!

Build a Dinghy Part 15

When the spiders have laid eggs in and around your project, you know you've let it sit too long. Well, I'm back a'building! Glued and nailed the keelson to my Summerbreeze. The designer calls for placing the boat on the floor, getting in and using your weight to keep the keel tight to the hull bottom while nailing. When I tried that, I was able to get the keelson on center at the transom and stem, but it "wandered" amidship (delflected to the side). Here's how I did it intstead.

1. Marked centerline on boat bottom.

2. Placed center of keelson on the C/L, clamped it down, traced it.

3. Removed the keelson and drilled pilot holes within the tracing from outside. (hull bottom)

4. Buttered hull and keelson with epoxy, nailed it down into the transom, applied a clamp bar, and nailed into the center frame as well.

5. Climbed under boat and nailed through pilot holes into keelson, stopping at the center frame.

6. Moved the clamp forward of the center frame, --half way to the stem--and applied a second clamp to the keelson at the stem

7. Climbed under again and finished nailing through the pre-drilled holes.

Here are pictures of my clamp, the resulting glue line, and the aft end of the keelson, nothced to accept the skeg ( I have to make the skeg next). Wouldnt want to put the keelson on without cutting that notch--would be difficult to cut it after its glued in place! The tan strips either side of the keelson are plastic strapping tape, used to keep squeeze out from making a mess.

Hi! Atus!

Hey Everyone! I Just got re-employed and been busy making that transition. The Summerbreeze "Princess" will resume building soon! Kevin

Build aDinghy: Part 15

While its helpful to have an array of tools, glues and equipment when building a boat, there's one piece of equipment that rarely gets mentioned in how-to articles: an eraser.

Here you can see how, after snapping a centerline, I laid the keel-shoe on for test fitting offset from center. Of course I didnt catch this until after I had traced its outline in deep, dark pencil lines. I need the outline to drill the pilot holes for the screws that hold the keel. These are driven from the inside so the pilot holes will guide me when I'm under the boat.The large childrens eraser shown is my constant companion. I've since re-measured and re-marked the lines.

Old Saying: Measure once, curse twice!